Back last July, I pitted and froze a quart or two of sour cherries after each week’s trip to the Farmer’s Market. Usually I was there with Prof. A., who keeps me rational. It’s not that she ever tells me not to do something, but she’s very good at eyeballing some mound of produce and saying, “Well, that’s a time commitment.” But one week she was gone and I was left to my own devices, and so of course I ended up with about eight quarts of cherries to deal with. We’re still working our way through them, but in December and January a cherry surplus isn’t such an awful thing. Especially not when one of the things you can make with them is this sour cherry coffee cake from the Amateur Gourmet, which used up a full quart and was utterly perfect.