The Year That Was: 2012

I didn’t do a Summer That Was post this year, since I was on research leave and didn’t feel the usually-clear demarcation that comes with the beginning of the fall semester. But the year and the leave are now nearly over, so it’s time to add it all up. It’s been a good and unusually quiet year, which I’m grateful for. I was a little superstitious about this leave, actually. All during grad school, whenever I would come into a long stretch for writing and research, something terrible would happen: I broke my ankle, Mr. Husband developed serious blood pressure problems, my grandfather died, my dad had surgery, my mother-in-law had a long, gut-wrenching decline and death. I was unreasonably worried that something awful would happen during my sabbatical, and am now unreasonably pleased that nothing did.

Professional:
It’s been a good year, filled with wonderful colleagues hither and yon, smart grad students, our fabulous staff, and interesting projects. There was room for a fair number of projects:

  • Two new single-authored articles, one accepted and one still out for review
  • One collaborative book chapter
  • Co-editing a journal special issue (with a co-authored intro)
  • A nearly-done book manuscript that needs to be hauled up the hill about another foot and a half.
  • A presentation on a new aspect of my ongoing 18c research, presented on an entirely historical panel (a first for me as a mostly-digital scholar).
  • Good progress on the curricular work I’ve been doing. The revised design of our Professional Writing course saw nearly 100% adoption last year, along with the recommended textbook. And my committee made solid progress on That Other Project, which will likely be a bit longer in the works.
  • I was on one-course release to devote time to Said Project, and so only taught one course in the spring: an upper-division pilot on Usability. It feels odd to have taught so little over the past 12 months, but the teaching that got done went well enough.

Travel, or Lack Thereof
It was an unusually stay-at home year, but it somehow felt right. After ten years of long road trips, conferences travel, and archival flights, we pretty much hung out at the house. Each year, I’m a bit more thrilled by Central New York and its four very distinct seasons. (As I type, we are in the midst of a gentle all-day snowfall which is drifting down on top of about 14 inches that are already down.) We are close to the Finger Lakes region, which is more or less the breadbasket of New York as well as the seat of US riesling production. And we’re bounded by the Catskills, the Adirondacks, and the Tug Hill Plateau. The Hudson and the St. Lawrence Seaway are both easy drives. So day trips are always in the offing during the summer, but we rarely took advantage of them this year.

Two trips I did take: A road trip with Mr. Husband to Philadelphia for RSA. Getting there required a stop at the Tunkahannock Viaduct and the Exorcist Priest Statue in Scranton:

Tunkahannock Aquaduct

The Exorcist Priest Sculpture

Being there meant a walk over to the Oldenburg Clothes Pin:

Oldenburg Clothespin

And returning meant a detour through New Jersey and Delaware:

Delaware!

In November, I took a solo drive to Boston to stay with the Spadaforas and bum around the city for a couple of days. Both J and I had cameras, but we took no photographs. It was a marvelous time — two old and dear friends, good food, a city I love. And the drive down took me over the Hudson, down the Mass Turnpike with its pilgrim hat signs, across the highest point of the Berkshires, and over the Appalachian Trail.

Food:
The was a year when a lot of elements conspired to level up the household food obsessions. People brought food as gifts, Prof. A and I kept going to the markets regularly, and gardening also brought me closer to the seasons. And of course being on leave gave me more brain space than usual for this sort of exploration. One of my goals for that leave on the personal side was what I thought of as “systems management,” by which I meant setting up and learning to do household system things that require some brain space to learn: canning, better gardening, cellaring, fermenting. That way, they’d be established skills that I’d be more likely to use during a regular, busy semester. Here’s what happened, more or less:

  • Eating really close to the seasons from citrus season to the first fiddleheads in the spring (thanks to JL’s foraging) and onward into ramps, asparagus, Copper River salmon, garlic scapes, all through the summer vegetables and on into honey, pumpkins and nuts.
  • Stumbling into baking after a lifetime of being “not really a baker.” This had everything to do with Mr. Husband’s encouragement and deserves a post of its own.
  • Learning to bake bread. Baking bread until it was no big thing to pop a loaf in the oven for company.
  • Learning to can, and learning to make things to go into all those jars. Jams, preserved fruit, pickles, compotes. Following the harvest by bringing it into the basement, the jar rack, the freezer.
  • Going berry picking. Standing on a hillside in the sun picking black raspberries, and remembering that when RMH congratulated me on my marriage in 2005, she said it was clearly lucky that we got married in the black raspberry season. All indications are that she was correct.
  • Haunting the farmer’s market with Prof. A.
  • Growing my first fairly functional garden: garlic, cucumbers, dill, tomatoes, tomatillos, carrots, lettuce, green onions, several types of chiles, cabbages. Also quite a few herbs: marjoram, parsley, basil, rosemary, sage, lemon grass.
  • Making both quick and fermented pickles. Now that I’ve figured out homemade pickled okra, I’m never going to let it go.
  • Discovering the Mennonite store just outside Seneca Falls, which led to us rethinking our relationship to dry goods and bulk storage. I now buy flour and rice 25 pounds at a time, and we have a much wider array of beans and rices on hand.
  • Learning to better manage the pantry, the liquor cabinet, and the burgeoning cellar. I felt like I hit a milestone in October when Mom asked me to help her with some gift baskets and I was able to put together really specific beers, wines, and cheeses based on both cost and preference. And there were other moments in the winter when I looked at rather involved recipes and realized that the pantry held all the central ingredients, or pulled a local Long Island Cheese pumpkin out of the cellar for an amazing Thanksgiving pie, or when I inventoried the liquor cabinet for New Year’s and realized that no new booze purchases were necessary. We are grateful for plenty.

Last but not least, the best milestone: celebrating ten years with the best partner one could hope for. Here’s to many more years, Mr. Husband.

Posted in Cooking, Northeasterness, Personal, Photos (by me), Travel | 1 Comment

50 Before 50 #24: Preserve Food, part 1

Essentials for Basic Root Cellaring

When I wrote this goal down in 2008, I believe I was thinking of canning. I wanted to put up a few jars of jam and pickles, learn to can in the process, and that was about it. Moving to Central New York with its amazing foodways has both coincided with and driven a reordering of our food priorities. Living here also brought us a house with a basement, and while most of that basement is finished, it does contain a pleasantly dark, cold corner that is good for food storage. The freezer went straight down there when it came to the house the May before last. It was joined this year by a baker’s rack that filled up with the canned goods I made. And at some point, it occurred to me that I’d like to expand our bulk-goods purchases to winter vegetables, and that those would need some storage space.

So far, creating a root cellar has involved the following:

  • Idly reading the Bubel’s canonical Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables. Optional: perplex one’s stylist by reading it in the chair whilst covered in hair dye. Note the range of possibilities that they map, which range from simply sticking a bag of onions in the coldest spot in your house (attic, stairs) to building a full-blown circulating-air root cellar. Also note with appreciation the detailed instructions for cellaring a wide variety of produce.
  • Purchasing a couple of $11.50 Acu-Rite humidity/temp sensors and putting them in a few areas that I thought might work. Tracking them for a few weeks. Identifying that the best spot really is that open area that needs to have some of the previous owner’s ridiculous, ancient, badly proportioned wooden storage racks hauled out of it.
  • Going to Boston, because then your wonderfully strong husband might take a sledgehammer to those racks while you are gone. Might spend an inordinate amount of time swinging at them, actually, and observing the various huge screws and crucifixion nails that all that scrap lumber had been knocked together with about 20 years ago. And then he might haul it all up to the curb for the village to haul away.
  • Returning and being amazed by the amount of space that has been freed up. Then procrastinate on cleaning the walls and floors.
  • Stop procrastinating, clean the space, and start setting up wire racks to hold the 13 squashes, 10 pounds of garlic, 10 pounds of potatoes, and 35 pounds of onions that you’re starting out with.
  • Start planning a wine rack and shutters for the window that you’ve never opened and that lets in far too much light for good preservation conditions.

Right now the onions and garlic are still stored in the string bags they came in, but we’ll figure out crates soon. The whole thing is very much an in-progress project, but so far we’re really enjoying having a consistent supply of alliums and squash just downstairs. The nice thing about this is that it’s been a very low-key, as-time-is-found process that has been relatively easy to fit in between deadlines. The only thing that hurried it along is the seasonal nature of produce availability. Next year, we’ll have figured out the humidity and light better and I’ll fill it up with quite a bit more things when autumn comes. But for now, I’m pretty happy with the way things are shaping up.

Posted in 50 Things Before 50 | 5 Comments

The Snow Man

— Wallace Stevens

One must have a mind of winter
To regard the frost and the boughs
Of the pine-trees crusted with snow;

And have been cold a long time
To behold the junipers shagged with ice,
The spruces rough in the distant glitter

Of the January sun; and not to think
Of any misery in the sound of the wind,
In the sound of a few leaves,

Which is the sound of the land
Full of the same wind
That is blowing in the same bare place

For the listener, who listens in the snow,
And, nothing himself, beholds
Nothing that is not there and the nothing that is.

(Via my friend Joan, who posted it to FB)

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Recipe Project #137: Duck Confit

I’m not a huge fan of duck by itself, but usually enjoy it as an ingredient in dishes. When Mr. Husband ordered a pound of flageolet beans from Rancho Gordo, we agreed that we were headed for a Cassoulet Experiment (which is another post altogether.) Since duck confit is a traditional ingredient in cassoulet and I didn’t want to use the plastic-packed confit that one can procure for about a zillion dollars per leg at Wegman’s, that meant making homemade confit. After a day spent googling around for local duck farms, it seemed that the best resource would be Hudson Valley Foie Gras. But I was busy and it is not a quick drive from my house. Another factor was the fact that they ship duck legs in packs of packs of six. We’ll order from them in the future, but since neither of us were actually yet sure that we liked confit enough to commit to six legs, we ended up back at Wegmans, spending $8.50 on a couple of boxed legs.

From there, things were fairly simple, if you follow Michael Ruhlman’s formulation:

  1. Day 1: Season the legs as you wish and leave them in the fridge to consider the matter. I followed Ruhlman’s recommendations except for the cloves. (You’ll find them in the link above.)
  2. Day 2: Slowly poach for approximately 10 hours in either olive oil or rendered duck fat. Your job on this day is to put the whole shebang in the oven, preferably in a very heavy pot, and then wander off to do other things for awhile. Check back somewhere around the six hour mark and if necessary look in periodically after that to wiggle a leg with a tong and determine when they’re done. Then pull the pan out, cool the legs in the fat, and eventually remove the legs to a storage container. Skim off the fat in order to use it for covering the legs. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Leave the “jelly” at the bottom of the cooking pot and reserve it for other uses.
  3. Days 3 through whenever: Leave the duck to age in the fridge for up to a month. I left mine for three weeks and it was pretty marvelous.

And that’s it. Total actual cooking time that involves you being in the same room as the duck: maybe an hour, tops. The payoff is completely inverse to your effort, and it leaves you set for a nice range of possibilities for using the confit.

And as always, if you’re interested in meat preservation, you’ll probably be interested in Ruhlman’s book Charcuterie. I’m not paid to say this; I’ve just used and enjoy this tome for years.

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To be of use

by Marge Piercy

The people I love the best
jump into work head first
without dallying in the shallows
and swim off with sure strokes almost out of sight.
They seem to become natives of that element,
the black sleek heads of seals
bouncing like half submerged balls.

I love people who harness themselves, an ox to a heavy cart,
who pull like water buffalo, with massive patience,
who strain in the mud and the muck to move things forward,
who do what has to be done, again and again.

I want to be with people who submerge
in the task, who go into the fields to harvest
and work in a row and pass the bags along,
who stand in the line and haul in their places,
who are not parlor generals and field deserters
but move in a common rhythm
when the food must come in or the fire be put out.

The work of the world is common as mud.
Botched, it smears the hands, crumbles to dust.
But the thing worth doing well done
has a shape that satisfies, clean and evident.
Greek amphoras for wine or oil,
Hopi vases that held corn, are put in museums
but you know they were made to be used.
The pitcher cries for water to carry
and a person for work that is real.

“To be of use” by Marge Piercy © 1973, 1982.
From CIRCLES ON THE WATER © 1982 by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. and Middlemarsh, Inc. First published in Lunch magazine.

(via Becky Rickly, who posted it to FB)

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First Snow, Winter 2012

Second day of snow, 2012

This time, it started on November 24. Still my most favorite time of the year. It apparently wasn’t for Emily Dickinson, who wrote considerably less generously on the topic:

LXXX

The sky is low, the clouds are mean.
A travelling flake of snow.
Across a barn or through a rut
Debates if it will go.

A narrow wind complains all day.
How some one treated him;
Nature, like us, is sometimes caught
Without her diadem.

(via Eileen-who-posted-it-to-Facebook)

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concentrated bursts within the confines of civilized hours

Downton Abbey doesn’t run on the American model, with a beehive of writers batting around ideas and dividing up the work; Fellowes writes the entire thing, which, this coming season, means seven episodes, two of which (numbers one and six) are two hours long, with the finale running 90 minutes. … Industrious and prolific as he appears, Fellowes proclaims himself a “closet lazy person” as a writer, someone for whom there are days when “which raindrop will make it down the windowpane first is an obsession.” He is not an all-nighter man; the Downton scripts are written in concentrated bursts within the confines of civilized hours. On a typical workday … he will take his time with breakfast and the morning papers, because, he said, “when I flurry through breakfast, I feel as though I never catch up.” He’ll work from about 9:15 to noon, break for lunch, and then barrel through to 6 pm, at which point, he said, “I tend to slightly run out of puff.” … The couple, when on their own, typically take their supper at home in front of the TV.

—Kamp, David. “The Most Happy Fellowes.” Vanity Fair Dec. 2012, 177.

Posted in Unsolicited Advice | 1 Comment

Recipe Project #124 – 136 : Late summer and early fall preserving

When I thought I’d do a little preserving this year, I imagined that I’d do a few jars of jam, some basic pickles, and that’d pretty much be it. But there’s something about seeing all those jewel-like jars all lined up on the shelves, and so I just kept going in the late afternoons after the day’s writing was done.

A lot of things here are from the canonical Ball Book of Preserving, which seems to have cracked down on unauthorized digital editions since the last time I posted a canning roundup. When other bloggers have posted the recipe, I’ve linked to them. Still, it’s a book worth having if you’re into this sort of thing.

Pickles:
1. Pickled Okra from the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving
2. Garlic Dill Chips from Food in Jars
3. Shredded Kohlrabi Quick Pickles from Serious Eats. I ended up with one jar of white and one jar of purple. It’s great in a bowl of udon.

Salsas:
4. Salsa Verde from Local Kitchen. Next time, I will halve the onion, double the lime, and up the heat.
5. Chipotle Tomato Salsa from Local Kitchen. Nicely smokey.
6. (Not So) Spicy Tomato Salsa from the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving. This is probably spicy enough for most people, but our tolerance for heat has changed a lot over the past few years. Since I don’t want to alter the acid ratio on this one by removing any low-acid ingredients, I’ll just continue adding more spice to the jar after we open it.

Jams and Syrups:
7. Plum and Star Anise Jam from Food in Jars. This is a near-perfectly balanced jam, adored by everyone except Mr. Husband. I served it to house guests last week and most of a jar was snarfled in a single breakfast. I only made two jars this year, but will make much, much more in the future.
8. Peach Jam from Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving

Other Items, all from the Ball Book unless otherwise indicated:
9. Apple Sauce (made with 1/2 cup of sugar and rather more lemon juice than called for)
10. Raw-packed Peaches in Light Syrup
11. Sweet Cherries in Syrup
12. ChowChow (unsuccessful. So far, this is the only thing we’ve thrown out.)
13. Herbes Salees from Well Preserved. This stuff is amazing, and next year I will make a ton of it. It’s handy to have on hand any time you’d normally add herbs and salt to a dish, which means we’re using it in beans, in sauces, in meat rubs, and whenever else it seems apropos.

Posted in Cooking, Recipe Project | 1 Comment